SubCultures

COP 2 Lecture

Subculture: The Meaning of Style

Introducing a text that all subcultural theory comes from: 

Hebdiege, D. (1979) ‘Subculture: The Meaning of Style'

Film by Don Letts. 

In one way or another you are all part of some part of subculture.

‘Youth cultural Styles begin by issuing symbolic challenges, but the must end by establishing new conventions; by creating new commodities, new industries, or rejuvenating old ones.

We feel the need to make subcultures, as we don’t feel part of main stream society, so we group together with like minded people, rethinking what it means to be individual. Creates our own values. Share an infinity with people we like. Challenging society, they might not have a specific politics, but by its nature is an attempt to suggest to the rest of the world that what there doing is alienating other. Symbolic challenges to the norm. People join the as an excitement for an alternative form of existence.

Historically, they start off as challenges to the norm and then eventually they end up as a convention. Main stream industries get involved and sell it back to them, so they no longer are independent so are no longer underground. 

Punk, rewrote the rules on masculinity, rejected the idea that music was a skill to be learned, a DIY ethos. Rejected the mainstream and challenged it, and utter refusal to conform. Part of this was not redefining what it means to be british but what it means to be from London.

London Calling album photo, an attack on mainstream pop music. Reference Elvis Presley album. 

It’s not authentic to by the main stream companies products that use the subculture as imagery and advertising this is just supporting what the industry was supposed to be rebelling against. Fancy dress lampoons the subculture as fun. Incorporation, is the term he gives to the consumer process and capitalism sucks back in that the subculture originally opposes.

Commodity form; the ay capitalism seizes on subcultures and creates a market for it. Once it becomes a mass market a new subculture has to be made.

Idealogical form; the fun made out of the subculture, such as fancy dress.

Tragically, always try to overthrow the mainstream, but always end up being sucked back in.

Fred Perry presents ‘Subculture’ (2012) Dir. Don Letts.

Comissioned by Fred Perry.

Opening line ‘Has anyone won wimbledon since fred perry? Ye that lass.

End of war, rock and roll from america, from early fifties. Eagerly consumed by teenagers.

Teddy Boys

First subculture that came along. With a uniform. Cared about Hair. The more flamboyant the better.

Reknowned for being conservative, and led to be racist in the media which caused fuss in the streets.

Rockers

Leather Jackets and motorbikes. Marlon Brando, ‘The Wild One’ biggest influence.

Teddy boys in notting hill riots,

Mods vs Rockers in Brighton

skin heads - 

Punks smashing things up

Violence made them more popular but also kills it. The essence of subculture is that there elitist but then that’s broken when everyone joins in.

Modernists

interested in modern jazz not rock and roll. 

Vespa

Gives an ability for the teenage generation not to rely on there parents.

Desert Botts, three button jacket. About being smart. Androgynous girls, and then camp looking guys. 

Both wore make up. 

Later on Parkas.

Mods separated 

Between Hippies, velvet jackets became flowery and started taking different drugs, pink floyd etc.

Harder mods became skinheads. 

Braces, anarchy.

Mods were never extreme, chosen by fred perry as chosen for simplicity that could also be sportswear.

England became multicultural. 

Rudeboy culture

The specials,

white socks and trousers, hitched up trousers, low rise hats.

Mixed with braces and loafers and you get skinheads.

’68’69’70 weren’t racist. 

Serious dressing no creases allowed!

As soon as the media reported it the whole thing died out in the 1970’s. Bu then later on it was revived and it was racist and violent. These kids adopted the look as it looked intimidating. 

Tennis - Mod - Skinhead

Soul Boy

early seventies, black music dance obsessed, counter parted by northern soul. 

all about loose fitting clothes you could dance in.

Platforms. Multi racial. No political statements, but subtly making a social statement about accepting others. Started clubbing.

Punk

Scare people

Malcom Mclaren - college artist (sex pistols)

lots of rips in clothes, chains, colours, no one looked the same.

Women with guitars. Feminist ideas got acted out in punk.

Once Sex Pistols swore on tv, became a pantomime with super big hair. 

Glam Rock

Two tone, those punks that joined with reggae. The specials, ska sound. Challenge authority through music and politically be able to change things. 

Monochrome feel, dressing in black and white. 

Every subculture was getting shorter and shorter. 

Football

casual wear fans, addidas puma, ellesse. Designer sportswear to football fans.  Discovered ecstasy, so rave started.

Rave a child of the hippies. Drugs, lights and sound.

Dressed to dance. 

Less about musical movements, more about musical genres. 

Brit pop

backward looking, guitar, bass and drum. Rock edge. \refreshing.

A celebration of british culture.

Documentary ends on youth culture then, as if subcultures haven't continued but I feel like some subcultures have been missed out, such as chavs, emos, goths and now the new hipster?